1: Build the Frame

Bookcase Headboard

 

A. Lay out your frame and

hardware. NOTE: The footboard and backboard have grooved bottoms that should face inward toward each other. Also the finished side of the frame boards should face the floor.

 

B. Assemble the frame with the corner brackets and screws provided. Note that the side frame boards extend past the backboard. The extended portion of the frame will support your bookcase headboard. A sure way to insure correct internal spacing from head to foot is to use one of the deck boards (see Step 2), as a measure. Lay the 1 piece of deck into the groove at the foot, now bring the head frame board in between the side rails until the deck fits in the groove. Mount at the point. Now remove the deck board and go to Step 2.

 

 

C. Position your assembled frame exactly where you want it in your room.

1: Build the Frame Panel Headboard or no Headboard

 

A. Lay out your frame and

hardware. Note that the

footboard and backboard have

grooved bottoms. The grooves

should face in toward each other. Make sure all frame

boards have finished surfaces

facing down on the floor.

 

 

B. If your frame includes a

headboard, attach it to the back frame board using the slats and screws provided.

REMEMBER: The groove in

the frame board must face

inward once the headboard is

secured.

 

 

 

 

 

C. Assemble the frame with

the corner brackets and screws provided. Note the finished top to the frame is facing up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Back To Main Page

 

 

Drawer Pedestal

 

A. (Some pedestals vary in configuration.) Lay one of the large drawer sections inside the frame, recessed as pictured.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

B. Lay the second large drawer assembly sections in on the other side of the frame, as pictured.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

C. Next, tilt the frame on to one side. Avoid moving the drawer sections. After Step 3 you will lower the frame onto the deck boards which will be mounted on the pedestal.

 

 

 

 

 

D. Now, slide in or attach the door section and wood pieces in the appropriate slots. These should be snug to assure proper support.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

E. Be certain the assembled Captain’s pedestal is accurately centered within the frame and in its final position, before moving to step 3.

 

 

 

2: Build the Pedestal

 

A. Lay out the pieces of your standard pedestal inside of the frame as pictured. The finished sides when assembled are to face outward.

 

 

 

B. Slide the brown corner brackets on each corner of the pedestal. Slide the corner bracket on to each pedestal board at an angle, to start, for easiest assembly.

 

 

 

 

 

 

C. Firm pressure is generally required to slide the corner brackets all the way on and lock the corner into position.

 

 

 

 

 

D. Assemble the two sets of the center support systems, by inserting the slotted pieces into one another. Position the two internal supports in the center of the pedestal, head to foot and side to side. You may receive a center support system of one longer piece and two shorter pieces that are slotted. Position down the middle of the pedestal.

 

 

 

E. The pedestal should be accurately centered within the frame in its final position.

 

 

 

 

 

 

F. Next, without letting it slide out of place, tilt the frame on to one side. Avoid moving the pedestal. After Step 3 you will lower the frame onto the deck boards Which will be mounted on the pedestal.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3: Lay Deck Boards on Pedestal

 

A. King size-position the three 24 inch deck board pieces so that the pedestal is equally recessed on all sides. The cut corners on the deck boards should be positioned at the four corners. If the corners are not cut simply trim off 1” - 2” from the corners at the head, nearest an outlet, to accommodate heater and massage unit cords. Cut all four corner.

 

 

B. Queen size – position the two 24 inch deck boards, with the one 12 inch deck board in the middle, so that the pedestal

is equally recessed on all sides. The cut corners on the deck boards should be positioned at the four corners

 

 

 

 

 

 

C. Super Single size – position the two 24 inch deck boards so that the pedestal is equally recessed on all sides. The cut

corners on the deck boards should be positioned at the four corners.

4: Mount the Frame to the Deck

A. Lower the frame onto the deck. Make sure the grooves on the bottom of the footboard and backboard overlap the deck boards. Re-check that the pedestal is centered and in

position.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

B. This detail photo shows how the grooves overlap the deck.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

C. Attach the “L” bracket into the middle of each frame board and deck to secure the deck to the frame. To protect liner and mattress from metal burrs, cover all inside metal brackets

with duct tape.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

D. If your waterbed features a bookcase headboard, mount it to the frame now. Secure the headboard to the frame with the flat brackets screwed in from underneath the

headboard behind the frame. This step may not be necessary.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

E. The padded rail caps slip over the frame edges.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5: Install Temperature Control Unit

UNPLUG HEATER BEFORE FILLING OR DRAINING YOUR WATERBED. FOLLOW SPECIFIC HEATER MANUFACTURER’S GUIDELINES FOR DETAILED INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS.

A. Place the heating pad in the center area of the deck avoiding the cracks in the deck boards. For Queen or Super Single place heating pad to one side or the other. DO NOT PLACE OVER CRACKS.

 

 

 

 

 

 

B. Run the thermostat control's sensor tube through the corner hole inside the frame onto the deck. The sensor tube should be positioned midway between

the frame and the heating pad, preferably twelve inches away from the heating pad.

 

 

 

 

 

C. To test the temperature control system, plug it in, turn the thermostat up and place your hand on the heating pad.

As soon as you feel it start to warm up, UNPLUG THE CONTROL FROM YOUR

WALL SOCKET.

6: Install Safety Liner and Mattress

A. If you purchased a “Stand-Up” safety liner, you simply need to spread it out inside your frame. It will stand-up inside the frame by itself. Smooth out the wrinkles, especially over the heating pad.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

B. Lay out your water mattress inside your safety liner with the valve at the front. Carefully avoid shifting any of the baffle inserts, if you bought a motion reduced mattress. Remove the wrinkles on the bottom and make sure the mattress is evenly centered. Unscrew cap and remove plug now.

 

 

 

 

 

C. Align the corners of the mattress with the corners of the frame. If your safety liner, heating pad, or thermostat sensor tube shifted during this process, reposition it now.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7: Filling the Water mattress

A. From your bathroom faucet, remove the aerator by unscrewing it. (If your bathroom faucet does not have an aerator, you will have to use your kitchen faucet or an

outside faucet.)

 

 

 

 

B. Attach the faucet connector you purchased with your waterbed maintenance kit into your faucet. Next attach in a garden hose to the faucet connector. Make a tight fit to avoid spray leakage (a towel placed over the faucet while filling will keep any leakage from spraying.) To help eliminate unclean water in your bed, flush running water through the garden hose for a minimum of 10

minutes before filling your bed.

 

 

C. Attach the waterbed hose connector onto your garden hose. Insert it into your “popped-up” valve and attach the hose connector and valve securely together to avoid leakage. Wrap a towel around this

connector to soak up any unavoidable leakage.

 

 

 

 

D. Pour in your waterbed conditioner. Fill your waterbed with mild to warm water approximately one quarter to one half inch below the side of the frame boards. Shut

off the water and remove the hose.

 

 

 

 

 

E. Remove the air bubbles inside the mattress. Do this by “pushing” them with a broomstick towards the valve which is “popped-up”. Remove all the bubbles or they will create a “sloshing” sound. You will have to remove air bubbles again in

about three days and also occasionally thereafter.

 

 

F. Insert the plug and securely screw on the cap. Plug in your temperature control system according to specific manufacturer’s instructions and turn the thermostat to 85. Within 3 days, you can more accurately adjust up or down to your

comfort.

 

 

 

 

G. This close up photo shows how to insert your cap and plug without allowing air to get in the mattress and without allowing water to spill out. Your cap and plug may be a one piece design. Not separate as shown.

 

8: Add Your Linens

A. Place your mattress pad onto the filled water mattress. By placing your knee in the corner of the filled mattress, it simplifies slipping the pad pocket or elastic band over the

corner of mattress.

NOTES: A mattress pad is very important to your waterbed. Not only will it make it more comfortable, but it will also soak

up any normal body oils that can deteriorate your mattress over time

 

 

 

 

B. Properly installed, your waterbed sheets will not come off because of the large corner pockets.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Still Have Questions?
Call Us!
615-731-9995

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Back To Main Page

               Snooze City's 
Instructions on How to 
Assemble a Waterbed

Back To Main Page